Headlight Restoration Liquid

Because of how the last one worked. Every kit on the shelf restores by abrasion - sandpaper, a drill attachment, a cutting compound. That process takes the factory coating off along with the yellow and leaves bare polycarbonate behind. Bare polycarbonate oxidizes faster than coated polycarbonate, which is why the haze often comes back sooner the second time. You didn't do it wrong. The method was always going to end that way. This one doesn't cut anything off the lens, so whatever coating you have left stays on it.

It makes the lens look better and leaves it less protected. Read the instructions on any sanding kit and they say it plainly: sand until the yellow residue is gone and the surface turns opaque white. That white is the coating coming off. Once it is gone, the sun starts working directly on the plastic.

We are not going to give you a number, because the honest answer depends on your car. A lens that sits in Arizona sun all day is on a different clock from one that lives in a garage. What we can tell you is the state the lens is in when you are done: cleared, not stripped. That is the part that decides how fast it comes back.

You can. Plenty of people do, then do it again the following year, and again the year after. Three kits and six hours of work over five years costs more than most people expect, and each round takes a little more off the lens. The real comparison is not one kit against another - it is whether you want to keep repeating the job.

There is nothing abrasive going near your car. No drill to skip across your hood, no sandpaper to cut into your clear coat, no tape to lay down first. Wipe up any overspill on the paint while it is still wet, the same as you would with any automotive product.

No, and we would rather say so now. Fogging on the inside of the lens means the housing seal has failed and moisture is getting in. That is a sealing problem, not an oxidation problem, and no surface treatment can reach it. Save your money.